Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Bobruisk or Bust...

Today we learned of the history of the Jews of Minsk and travelled 2 ½ hours from Minsk to Bobruisk. On the way, we learned of the work of JDC in this region. Among some of the general facts that we learned about Belarus:
· 2 million residents of which 80% live in private-owned apartments
· There is a very high rate of divorce…nearing 55%
· If a resident wishes to leave the country for more than 72 hours, he must register at the Ministry of the Interior
· Once a business is successful, the government often steps in and “asks” the company to become their partner and then the company “offers” to give the government 55% (!!) of interest in the company

The JDC was faced with a situation when the doors of post-Soviet times opened that looked like this: In 1989, there were no Jewish schools, no synagogues, virtually no identification of any Jewish affiliation, illiterate in Hebrew and on and on and on…There also was no infrastructure for supporting the Jewish community. Rebirth of Judaism and Jewish life began in earnest in 1991.
Currently, Minsk has 30,000 Jews. Many have made Aliya and many speak of moving. Yet, the vast majority seem to be here for the long haul. Since 2001, Minsk has a Jewish Campus housing all forms of services under one roof. It is open to ALL Jews.

JDC’s work breaks down into three main areas:
a) Chessed: What began as packages of food for the poor in 1991 has evolved into a network of institutions all across Belarus. Hundreds of needy Jews are fed daily; home health care, home visits for those who can’t leave their home, subsidies for those needing medicines…are merely a small portion of the work done by The Joint. They even arrange to repair small appliances and other items for those who would not be able to afford it.

b) Jewish renewal: For 70 years, Jews were cut off from being able to practice (publicly) ….life and tradition was lost for 2-3 generations. Via many different means and methods, JDC has been instrumental in the re-birth of Jewish life. Something as small as baking challot before Shabbat as a method to re-introduce Shabbat is only one of dozens of such actions to bring about this re-birth. They also run over 50 different programs with the same goal. One example is summer camp. Another amazing example is something we, from the USA, take for granted but is un-heard of in Belarus: Mainstreaming children with mental and physical disabilities into various programs and schools.

c) Children’s Initiative: This section deals with children at risk. This encompasses anything from kids from abusive homes, alcohol-related issues, etc.

After our long bus ride, we arrive in Bobruisk. This city, until 1941, was home to 26,000 Jews. On November 7, 1941, there was a mass murder of 20,000 of those Jews in a 24 hour period. We arrived at the site of a mass grave to 10,000 of the murdered where a memorial stands in their memory. There are two ravines on either side of this area where Jews were lined up and summarily executed. Besides a marble memorial, there are large numbers proclaiming “10,000” with no other description. It stands in silent memory of those buried there. A number of people light memorial candles in their memory after reciting a Kel Male. The memorial has steps leading up to it that are made of red granite as a reminder of the blood that flowed there years ago.
Next we visited a JCC where all of the activities, whether for the young children or the adults who are there for Yiddish club revolved around the theme of Tu B’shvat, as today is indeed Tu B’Shvat.

We had the opportunity then to meet at the home of one of the clients of the Chessed. He receives aid in terms of food, money and medicine from JDC. But that is only half the picture. To see his living conditions is to understand abject poverty. While the square meters of his apartment are not too small, the CONDITION is atrocious. His “kitchen” (the seize of a closet) is in total disrepair and his bathroom (you will excuse me) is made up of a tub from 60 years ago and has a pot next to it. How very sad.

A visit to the cemetery where we encountered some very interesting history regarding Chabad and a visit to the JAFI (Jewish Agency for Israel—the Sochnut) where WE participated with some of the local teachers in a Tu B’Shvat activity rounded out our time in Bobruisk. All in all, a VERY interesting and enlightening day.

We had the honor of hearing from the Israeli ambassador to Belarus at dinner.
Tomorrow it is off to Volozhin. I am VERY much looking forward to this day as the history of the location and the personalities who came from there are legendary.
Until then…off to try and get some sleep!

(And I keep thinking to myself: “Thursday night I will be home in Israel…!”)

Monday, January 21, 2008

Welcome to Minsk...

Our journey began in Chicago, jumped to Washington, DC, lumbered to Vienna and meandered on to Minsk. The bulk of our flights were on Austrian Air. I must admit that it was disconcerting to hear the announcements in German and doubly disconcerting to see the flight attendants all dressed in bright red.

(In my mind, all I could see on their sleeves was a black swastika…it is hard to separate the history of Austria vis-à-vis the Jewish people and modern times. While not one of the attendants was old enough to be alive during WWII, I could not help by wonder, “what were their grandparents doing in the early 1940’s?” )

As in past trips, we had the opportunity to daven with a minyan in the airport of a country that once wanted to eradicate Jews from the planet….such a nice feeling!

I must make mention before continuing this log of a few points. We are privileged to have with us on our trip (as in all past trips) HaRav Gedalia Dov Schwartz, shlit”a, Av bet Din of the Chicago Rabbinical Council and the Bet Din of America. His knowledge of both the depth and breadth of Halacha, Jewish history and its personalities and his undying love for his fellow Jews adds an immeasurable dimension of wisdom and sagacity to our trip. In addition, we are privileged to have Rabbi Yehiel Poupko as our scholar-in-residence and as our teacher/guide. His ability to bring to life both the old and the new as far as history, people, places and time periods helps to make this trip that much more meaningful.

(MINSK) I must say that when we (finally) arrived in Minsk and after going through the airport, I felt like I was back in Kiev; the Soviet garb, Soviet-looking facility and the uniformed airport personnel. (The woman who stamped my passport had an army uniform complete with three stars on her lapel. Does she receive another star with every 1,000th customer??) The personnel looked like they were right out of central casting for Stalin-era actors! I assumed that this would be the type of city that would greet us, but the truth is that it turns out to be much more cosmopolitan and Western than I had anticipated.

Already on the bus from the airport, we learned some of the recent history of Minsk and of its Jewish population…how at one time Minsk was nearly 50% Jewish (!). Since the brain is a little fuzzy due to the long trip, I will save the details and add them to the events of Tuesday.
No matter all the travelling…this is going to be a wonderful and educational trip.
Assuming I am able to get an internet connection each night, I will add to this blog on a daily basis.
Your comments are always welcome!

Sunday, January 20, 2008

The Journey Begins

For the sixth year in a row, I have the privilege of participating in a Federation-sponsored trip to Eastern Europe and Israel. This trip by a group of rabbis from Chicago has evolved over the past few years into a wonderful mix of history, culture, learning and personal growth. We learn so much of Jewish History in the places it occurred; we learn of the wonderful work of the JDC (Joint Distribution Committee) and the Federation; and we have the opportunity to meet Jews of all types in large communities and small rural settings.

As in the past, I plan to document our trip via this blog. Unlike in the past, I am doing this via a "regular" blog and not regular email. This is my first shot at a regular blog, so we'll see how that goes!

Our trip this year is taking us to Belarus; specifically to Minsk, Volozhin and other towns in-between. We will be arriving IYH in Minsk on Monday afternoon and remain there until Thursday evening when we will board a plane to Israel.

I welcome your feedback and comments on this trip and hope you will enjoy "travelling" with me via this journal.